Berlin Fashion Week Ticker: That’s what you expect
Finally something is happening again. The seemingly endless show schedule has shrunk considerably since main sponsor Mercedes-Benz redirected its commitment. Instead of partly medium exciting shows every hour, the major sponsor has clearly defined his focus. Together with the Fashion Council Germany and the Berliner Salon, the focus is now on young German designers. On the one hand as part of the Berlin Mode Salon in the Kronprinzenpalais. With shows and presentations as well as the group exhibition, this event will paint a beautiful picture of contemporary German fashion, which of course you can discover in the Berlin Fashion Week Ticker.
Apart from that, my focus will be on the fairs. With the Kraftwerk in Mitte, the Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show have been given a new downtown home and are finally moving sustainability from the periphery to the center of the action. Also new is the FASHIONsustain conference, which will hopefully provide exciting insights into the sustainable fashion future. In addition, I look naturally at the XOOM, the Berlin offshoot of the Innatex is to be found now on the Panorama.
You can find the current reporting here at Insta-Stories
Thursday, 18.1.2018 – Berlin Fashion Week Ticker
Fashion Changers Talk
What power do customers have? With this question, the Fashion Changers have ushered in the last of the three days of the fair during their talk in the Kraftwerk. Members of the heated discussion round? Jörg von Kruse (i+m), Nike van Dinther (This is Jane Wayne), Markus Werner (Virtel / Vor), Tina Müller (Consumer Researcher). Esther Rühe of Die Konsumentinnen moderated.
Imagine someone selling fast fashion and no one goes! – my-GREENstyle
Long story short: guys, we have power! Much more power than we think. Even if the word “power” is ugly. But after all, we want to use it for something good. And we can express that power daily through our buying decision. Consume less. Buy consciously. Because if no one buys more fast fashion less will be produced.
Defilée William Fan by Berliner Salon
Those who are supported by so many institutions (Mercedes-Benz, Fashion Council Germany, VOGUE editor-in-chief Christiane Arp) must have potential. I am a confessed fan of William Fan and his very individual, wonderful collections for several seasons. Actually from the moment he started telling his own story with his collections. This time, the trip went to his parents’ Chinese restaurant in the province.
This time the trip went to a China restaurant. What a great location for a defilée!
Of course, only in the figurative sense, because the China restaurant, which William Fan has chosen for his Defilée, is right next to the “Rotes Rathaus” in the middle of Berlin. Guests sat at tables, served great Asian delights, and again saw a brilliant Fan collection. My highlight? The fortune cookie bag (picture) that works as a clutch, shoulder or hip bag etc. And I love William Fan too. Because of his incredibly great perfume, which he mixes together from different fragrances and does not want to tell me what those are.
A defilée with delicious food? That would be a model for the future!
Too bad: On my written demand on the subject of sustainability, I unfortunately only got the answer that there is currently no time capacity for a corresponding answer. Of course, as soon as I hear something new, I will publish it here. I still love the collection. Nobody is perfect after all
Wednesday, 17.1.2018 – Berlin Fashion Week Ticker
Fashion HAB x Damir Doma
And there is another location – the Fashion Council Germany, which is cooperating with Mercedes-Benz for the first time, has found a location for its first Fashion HAB in the Halle am Berghain. And brought Damir Doma back home for the kick-off event. Born in Bavaria, he left home in 2006 to show his collections in Paris and Milan, where his studio is now based. Unfortunately, the picture reflects quite a bit of the stunning show. Here it was pretty fast to the point. In addition to a (his quote) sensitively and poetically but also raw, coarse and unfinished collection, which presented the models almost at a run, were in the evening installations by u.a. Benu Berlin (winner of the FCG mentoring program for sustainable designers) and Last Heirs.
Backstage at the Salonshow at the Kraftwerk
Looking behind the scenes is one of my main tasks as a journalist. Less investigative but perhaps quite interesting for those interested in making-of-pictures is the backstage look at the Salonshow at Kraftwerk Berlin. Little space, many models, even more hair and make-up professionals … Coming soon
Greenshowroom x Ethical Fashion Show
Of course, my biggest focus was on the sustainable exhibition duo. This first took place in the Kraftwerk. And after the very first expenses in the Hotel Adlon at the Brandenburg Gate over long-time erroneous into the very last corners of Berlin finally made the leap into the city again. Quite pure in the middle. To Mitte. You can find my favorite eco-labels here
FASHIONsustainBERLIN – Kraftwerk
With FASHIONsustainBERLIN, the Kraftwerk has entered into a creative conference format that offers a great opportunity to learn about sustainability. The motto of the all-day event: Run for Circularity. The speakers: top-class guests such as Javier Goyeneche (Ecoalf), Ellen Karp (Anerca), Peter Bartsch (Lenzing).
I could swim before I could run. Sure, I care about the oceans – Alexandra Cousteau
I actually heard only the incredibly charismatic Alexandra Cousteau, because the time was too short because of various appointments with designers, labels, shows, conferences. Following in the footsteps of her great-grandfather Jacques, she founded the EarthEco Foundation together with her brother Philippe. The goal: to inspire young people to act now for a sustainable future. And what connection has the filmmaker and environmental activist to fashion?
And this is what Alexandra Cousteau is talking about today: Why exploit when you can explore?
As a “water child” she is connected to the ocean as much as possible. And that’s exactly what has made her into fashion. Because the fingerprint of fashion can be found everywhere in the sea. Plastic. MikroPlastik. Chemicals. And there are so many ways to do it better. And that’s why we are all here today … PS: I would like to listen to all the lectures so quietly. As soon as I find a way to offer a stream from the conference, you will find the link here
Tuesday, 16.1.2018 – Berlin Fashion Week Tickerr
Ecoalf x Felder Felder – Ecoalf Store
A few months ago, the Spanish eco-label in Berlin opened its first flagship store outside its home country. Of course I have published a corresponding post. With Ecoalf Berlin definitely has a great sustainable hotspot. Because here is not only a collection of recycled materials offered. Here, the entire store concept is based on the same materials.
Because there is no Planet B
While the shop uses a lot of recycled walnut, the two basic materials – PET bottles and fishing nets – are not just found in jackets, shoes and backpacks. Contemporary installations also integrate these into the superstylish shop. The capsule collection Ecoalf designed together with the design duo Felder Felder was shown this evening with delicious Spanish snacks. Yes, sustainable fashion can look so cool. But we have to wait until autumn / winter 2018/19. Because that’s how long it will be before the parkas are available. A visit to the Ecoalf Store is always worthwhile! Alte Schönhauser Straße 5-5a
Callisti presented by Mercedes-Benz x ELLE – ewerk
ELLE and Mercedes-Benz have together been presenting young design talents as part of Fashion Week for several seasons, giving international young talent access to an XL audience. In the past, such exciting collections as the 3D and laser-cut looks of the Dutch couture designer Iris von Herpen came to Berlin.
Young design talents get a lot of spotlight in this format
Among the highlights are definitely the Japanese Wataru Tominaga, the Swiss Julia Seemann or the winners of the festival in Hyères Satu Maaranen, Berlin-based Annelie Schubert and Steven Tai, who now works in London. With her label Callisti, the Viennese artist Martina Mueller-Callisti came to Berlin with her lovingly detailed collection in delightfully unagitated colors. Besides the indication that Callisti is made in Europe, unfortunately I have found no further information about sustainability.
Tuesday, 16.1.2018 – Berlin Fashion Week Ticker
Fashion Changers x PrePeek – Kraftwerk
For the third time, the so-called PrePeek Event will be held as part of the Greenshowroom or the Ethical Fashion Show. This new format was originally initiated by the two supergirls Thekla Wilkening and Pola Fendel from the Hamburg-based Kleiderei. Since the summer edition of the fair, the Fashion Changers Nina, Vreni and Jana have continued the event and have turned the cozy lounge corner into a wonderful slow-fashion hotspot for fair bloggers during the fair’s hustle and bustle.
Hotspot for a group of maximum motivated favorite people
In addition to great talks and the opportunity to style looks with favorite items from the labels’ fall / winter collections 2018/19 and then to make a photo of them, this time it was all about one thing: the community. Us. The people who are committed to sustainable fashion. Blogger, who has grown together into a group of enthusiastic and favorite people. It is clear that I dedicate this topic to my own post because I was here on all three days of the fair. But that takes a bit longer …
VOGUE Salon in the Kronprinzenpalais
Since 2011, VOGUE editor-in-chief Christiane Arp has been supporting talented German designers at the VOGUE Salon. A great, but unfortunately not often enough “copied” format, because German design still needs a proper push to be noticed in public. Amongst the talents under the patronage of the fashion boss, among others, count. William Fan, who combined the East Asian and European elements to fantastic high fashion. Another real must-have is the geometric jewelery which Ina Beissner produces from Fairtrade jewelery.
Working Title: A new star in the sustainable high-fashion sky
Particularly exciting is the decision of Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja, who designed noteworthy collections in Berlin under the name Antonia Goy for twelve years. Now the creative duo has decided to take other paths. In addition to the design, the focus has recently been on sustainability. The name of the label was renamed without further ado to Working Title, first items were presented to VOGUE editor-in-chief Christiane Arp in Munich and after their enthusiastic confirmation and commitment to show the result in the VOGUE Salon, then developed a collection. Completely without plastics. No polyester, no plastic zips or buttons, instead only natural materials “Made in Europe”, so that the garments at the end of their life cycle can be disposed of largely without residue. A detailed portrait follows.
Berliner Salon – my top 3
The Kronprinzenpalais has definitely become a hotspot during Berlin Fashion Week over the past few seasons. Exciting newcomers, established labels, all from German-speaking countries and all high-end. Most produced in Germany or Europe. Not always green, but at least pretty slow. My personal highlights are in the gallery
Limited Edition by Der Berliner Salon
The Berliner Salon in the Kronprinzenpalais is the mirror of German fashion. Here, young up-coming designers and established labels show their concentrated creativity. Every time a real highlight for me, especially since the format, unlike the somewhat more impersonal shows, allow direct contact with the designer. This time, there is a Limited Edition with a designer for the first time. The T-shirt with the Berlin print was designed by the Berlin design icon Leyla Piedayesh (Lala Berlin). Incidentally, the names of all salon participants can be found on the back. Produced in Germany and 10 euros of the sales proceeds go to Be an Angel e.V. Pre-orderable here from 22.1.2018.
Monday, 15.1.2018 – Berlin Fashion Week Ticker
Industry Insights x Kraftwerk
I got a first insight into the new location of the Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show at the Industry Insights, with which on Monday evening the prelude to three maximally sustainable fashion days succeeded. Although I already knew the hall because it used to be the Show & Order, I am incredibly excited not only about the fact that sustainability is now in the middle of Mitte, but about the whole presentation of the meanwhile big event. Great stand design, exciting staging, impressive location – in short: professional. I have not seen much on the way to the panel discussion, except from the wonderful Fashion Changers who were busy with the last prePEEK preparations and some booths from the fashion schools, but the impression was just wow! And after the talks by Minister of Economic Affairs Brigitte Zypries and a (surprisingly!) blazing speech by Dr. Ing. Christian Ehlers, Member of the European Parliament, I can only say: Good to hear that the topic of fashion, its importance to society AND the question of the way it is produced has also arrived in politics and business. That is why there is now the Fashion Council Germany, which promotes sustainable designers such as Philomena Zanetti and Benu Benu Berlin with its mentoring program. That’s why Premium has teamed up with Messe Frankfurt, the organizer of the sustainable trade fair duo and Fashion Council Germany. Because only together you are strong. And everyone still has so much to learn from each other.
ZEITmagazin x VOGUE conference
The fashion & style conference in the Kronprinzenpalais is always the most inspiring prelude to the Berlin Fashion Week. This time the podium guests discussed “The Relevance of Fashion”. Because even in the fashion business, it is clear that something has to change. Everything is getting faster. There are too many shows, too many collections. Just too much to be noticed. Yes, maybe even taken seriously. Top-class designers leave their posts because they can no longer stand the system. Influencers are hyped up and degenerate from the inspiration they used to be to us into brand and consumer junkies, all of which look confusingly alike and have no message but more, more, more. What really helps the fashion? A question that is of course not so easy to answer. But I think we are on the right path, because the sustainability that we all face is the first step in the right direction. So not only the fashion will endure, but also our planet. Incidentally, Hella Schneider wrote an exciting summary on VOGUE.
Above the clouds with LOQI
The Berlin Fashion Week has started this time for me with a very special event – an overnight stay in the LOQI Tower at the Frankfurter Tor. High above the rooftops of Berlin with a fascinating panorama and especially with the paradislacal wallpaper by Hvass & Hannibal. The dreamy prints of the Danish design duo decorate the latest LOQI collection. Did I have fun? I think the picture is worth a thousand words …
“ZEITmagazin and Vogue” conference
Everything is turning faster and faster, and even proven fashion experts are foregoing forecasts. Too insecure and, above all, unpredictable are the developments in fashion. When everything becomes more fast-paced, inventory, quality and ethics lose importance – what meaning can this have for fashion? Today, everything revolves around this trend-setting issue at the sixth edition of the top-class fashion & style conference in the Kronprinzenpalais in Berlin, where VOGUE editor-in-chief Christiane Arp, ZEIT magazine editor-in-chief Christoph Amend, as always, have exciting guests: designers Brunello Cucinelli and Sung-Joo Kim (MCM) will also be on the stage on this topic, as will Oliver Reichert (Birkenstock) publisher Gerhard Steidl and other exciting personalities.